Installation information

Relax Woodburning Workshop Stoves turn your waste wood into free heat! The Relax Stove Range burn wood, pallets, off cuts, sawdust, shavings and logs so in an environmentally friendly way AND heat your workshop, garage, greenhouse, out buildings or garden buildings.

Why pay to have your waste wood disposed of, when you can turn it into an excellent heat source?

The Relax range of Wood burning Workshop stoves are an economical form of heating for workshops, greenhouses or industrial units, designed to burn wood off cuts, ( off-cuts ) shavings and sawdust. Clever design and construction delivers preheated air to the heart of the fire bed, whilst an effective supply of secondary air ensures compliance with EEC Regulations regarding smoke emissions and burn rates. Relax stoves are also Sawdust Burners.

The RELAX Workshop Wood burning Stoves are loaded with fuel through an access plate in the top. There is a convenient ash cleaning hatch, and the RELAX stoves are fitted with a safety guard. The & offer outputs of 4Kw, 6Kw & 8Kw, while the larger stoves –  The 12kw and 20kw – should burn overnight without attention, if hardwood off cuts or logs are used.

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Installation Information

Operating Instructions



  • The installation should conform to all current Building Regulations and Local Authority Bylaws.
  • Correct installation is the responsibility of the installer.
  • A minumum of 3 metres of flue is required for a good draw.

> A Stove is only as good as its flue; a poor flue means poor performance from your Stove. With the Relax range of Stoves the flue pipe comes in one-metre lengths each having a male and female end. Start by putting the first male end of the first length of flue into the Stove and working up from there in the same manner. This ensures that any moisture runs back down into the Stove.

Keep the single wall flue pipe within the building for as long as possible, thus retaining more heat and maintaining a higher flue temperature minimizing condensation. Once outside the building, some form of insulation will improve flue performance as cold or chilled air in the flue is heavy and has to be pushed out of the flue by the rising hot air.

Best draw performance is obtained using a straight flue; this often means using a Tile Flashing. One example, shown on the right, is malleable and soft enough to be moulded over tiles. Another example is a Boot Flashing for use especially on corrugated metal roofs. This second example also has a high temperature variant for use within 2 metres of a Stove outlet.

On the top of the flue you need a Rain Top (right) or, in cases of a low flue outlet (less than 3Mtrs), where a down draught is expected, we recommend the use of an Anti-Down Draught Swivel Cowl (left). This turns with the wind and almost always solves the problem. The rain top or cowl should be held in place with three, self-tapping screws.

A flue height of 3 metres is required to create sufficient draw. Ideally a flue should terminate 600mm above the ridge of a roof and never terminate a flue below the eaves. The ideal situation is to come out of the roof 1metre to the side of the ridge, thus giving the flue maximum support. Longer flue lengths may require the use of a damper to reduce the draw.

If the flue run is unable to go straight up and it has to come out of the wall, use two 450 bends (right) with a short straight length between them to allow for the wall thickness. Continue the flue run vertically up as far up as possible.
Smoke does not travel horizontally, therefore when using two 900 bends (left) it is preferable not to have more than 200mm run between them.

Care should be taken at all times to insulate a flue from any combustible material or, at least allow sufficient space to avoid spontaneous combustion.

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